T.A.B.O.R.  PLATES  AXLE RETAINERS : pat. pend

    These plates are design engineered for use with TIMKEN SET 10 tapered roller bearing.
    AND ONLY the National 9912 outer axle seal.
    They wont work with or fit any other seal!  [ I H Scout DANA 44 TABOR plate,  Jeep TABOR PLATES FIT OTHER oem, SEALS.
    NATIONAL 9912  are the best for this application!
   This seal has the tallest body  .425" where as all other brands are .380", so the 9912 takes up more space, and thus eliminates some axle bearing end play, by its  compression upon installation in the axle tube.

   The oem original style retainer plates have an extremely large axle hole diameter, and when the bearing fails and starts to disintegrate, the axle will easily slide thru the axle shaft hole in retainer plate.
   This cant happen with the T.A.B.O.R. plate!
   My TABOR plate becomes the axle bearing, plus axle retainer, if the bearing fails, so the axle cant slide out of housing, the axle cant shift vertically, so the brakes will still work, the axle will still drive the wheel, 
   and thus- no loss of vehicle control or steering.

   I was able , through more study and design, come up with a solution to the rear Dana 44 semi floating axle bearing end play.
  Tapered roller bearings are designed to be fully seated in the outer race for maximum  thrust loads, and any end play unseats the bearing from the race and all the load is applied to one or two of the rollers,
   and a bearing soon fails as it is working outside of its  design parameters.
  All the tapered roller bearings I've seen fail- do so at the top ID of the race, which is where the total vehicle weight is concentrated on the race ID.

  All older style two piece axles had the tapered roller bearing cone facing out, and the race was seated inwards against the bearing cone, and the shims placed between the race and the retainer, to adjust endplay.
  The newer design Dana 30,35,44,60 semi floating axles have the bearing cone facing in to the outer race.
  Until now there was no way to adjust for axle/ bearing endplay.
  Tapered roller bearings should have ZERO END PLAY for maximum bearing life, and the least amount of rolling resistance- equal load over entire bearing.
  You'll notice that all differential pinion bearings, and carrier bearings and front wheel bearings and any transmission  with tapered roller bearing are preloaded,
     so they have a usefull life and can handle the thrust and   end load.
   My shims are a perfect fit behind the SET 10 bearing race.
   Now you can measure axle bearing end play and adjust it -to eliminate any endplay.
   My  tests have shown an average 2 mile per gallon increase in fuel economy  [ from 14 mpg to 16mpg]
     and double the coasting difference once the shims were installed and endplay reduced to 0.000"!!!
  This is doubly important  to any vehicle with rear disc brakes- eliminating axle endplay stops the caliper piston from getting forced back into the caliper bore, thus giving  better, and more responsive braking.

 The original 7/16th' bolts were bare minimum for strength and durability, and  wear out-elongate- oval shape the bolt holes in the shackles and spring perches.
  I noticed lots of greasable spring bolts, all commercially available were either grade 5 or 8 SAE, which is ok, but no thought went into it!
  For one thing- the pilot hole drilled into the  length of  the bolt shaft are 1/8th" dia.
  Now if you subtract 1/8 from 7/16th" you end up with 5/16th" A simple perusal of any bolt strength chart would show 5/16th strength at 6300 pounds tensile- 7/16th" is 12800 lbs.
  5/8th bolts are 27100 Lbs  -[ SAE grade 5 coarse threads.]
  I noticed  an extraordinary amount of bolt breakage with 7/16th' greasable bolts.
  The manufactures wouldnt address my concerns and warnings that this could cause crashes and deaths due to loss of vehicle control!
  Doing  research I found that a SAE 8 bolt  5/8th' when drilled out  with a 1/8th" drill drops the strength from 38400 to 24000 lbs+- and this is still way higher than the original 7/16th solid bolts at 17800 lbs [grade 8 SAE with fine threads]
  So-CASE CLOSED! use the 5/8th' bolts-that stops any bolt breakage   and that eliminates the sleeves  for the poly bushings,
  makes for a smoother, softer quieter ride, stops the need to replace spring perches and shackles that are worn out= just drill them to 5/8 and use 5/8 bolts!

  With todays horrible gasoline, fuel vapor lock is common reaction to under hood temps>
  The  Coolers I invented and use, stopped ALL fuel vapor lock in 120*f temps,
   I noticed more power from engine, and a 1 mpg increase in fuel economy  using one of these gas coolers.

       Lets face it, the oem original design is faulty.
      My support  fits under the radiator, supports the full width of the rad. allows for adjusting vertically for fan shroud clearance.
      It fits into the scout easily ,  Only modification needed is enlarge oem  radiator mounting bracket bolt holes.
     Now using my radiator support, your Scout body and frame can flex and twist  a lot, with no damage to the radiator.  The thick durable cushion the radiator rests on, absorbs vibration, flexing, and the shock load from driving on bumpy roads.

     call or email me, then send me a U.S. POST OFFICE MONEY ORDER to my address.
     Upon receipt of the MO, the parts go out same day, if possible.
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