Pahrump, Nevada    
                                                                                                               775- 751-0815     jamkid@suddenlink.net           

      PAGE 8 -    EDUCATION:

     T.A.B.O.R. PLATES  AXLE RETAINERS     pat. pend.
     These plates are design engineered for use with TIMKEN SET 10 tapered roller bearings, 
       and ONLY the NATIONAL 9912 outer oil seals.
     THEY WONT WORK WITH OR FIT ANY OTHER SEAL! [ I.H. Scout DANA 44 TABOR plate, Jeep TABOR plates fit other OEM seals]
     NAT. #9912 SEALS ARE THE BEST for this application!
     This seal has the thickest metal wall and shoulder to resist compression of seal under side load and thrust load.
     This seal also is the 'tallest' in dimension [.425" in thickness],  all other brands are .375"+-,
        and thats where most axle end play is from- installation of wrong seal!
     The National 9912 seal is designed to collapse in height from .425 to .386" upon installation compression against bearing and 
        retainer plate.
     This is so the rubber seal on the exterior  of the 9912  expands and seals the body to the axle housing ID, for less leakage of
     Therefor- even when that seal is collapsed- its still .010" of an inch  thicker/taller than any other brand seal!
     This takes up at least .010" of axle end play!
     The original plates have an extremely large I.D. for the axle, and when the bearing fails and starts disintegrating- 
      the axle can easily slide through the axle shaft hole in the plate.
     That cant happen with  T.A.B.O.R. Plate!

     It took years of study and measuring and inspecting failed bearings and seals,
        and retainer plates, to design a better retainer,
        and to finally arrive at a retainer plate that solved all the faults in original design.
     You benefit from all this with a retainer plate that DOES ITS JOB!

   I was able, through more study and design come up with a solution to rear axle Dana 44, [ and others] bearing end play.
   Tapered roller bearings are designed to be fully seated in the race in order for it to function as designed,
     any end play puts the entire vehicle weight on one or two bearing rollers, instead of equally distributed over all rollers.
   In my studies- I've seen, and its 100%  among failed bearings, that all tapered roller axle bearings fail at top of the races ID.
   Which is where the weight is focused with loose, non- preloaded tapered roller bearing[s]. 
 All older style two piece axles had tapered roller bearings that faced cone out,
   so race was seated inwards[ went in last] into axle housing tube.
     and the adjustment shims were on the outside of race behind the retainer plate. 
   The newer design Dana 30,44, 60 semi floating axles have the tapered bearing cone facing in.  'V' goes inwards.
   Until now there was no adjustment for axle bearing end play!
   Tapered roller bearings should have NO END PLAY for longest life,
     and least amount of rolling resistance - equal load spread over entire bearing.
   You'll notice that all differential pinion and side carrier bearings and front wheel bearings,
     and any transmission with tapered roller bearings are preloaded, so they have a useful life and can handle the thrust and end load.
   My shims are a perfect fit behind the Set 10 bearing race.
   Now you can measure axle bearing end play and adjust - to eliminate this looseness.
   My tests have shown an average 2 mile per gallon increase in fuel economy  [from 14 to 16 mpg] 
     and double the coasting distance once shims were installed and end play reduced to 0.000"!!!!
   This is doubly important to any vehicle with rear disc brakes-
      eliminating axle end play stops the caliper piston from getting knocked back into the caliper bore,
      thus giving better more responsive braking.

   The original 7/16th" were bare minimum, but they wear out- elongate, oval shape the bolt holes in the shackles and spring 
   I noticed lots of greaseable spring bolts, all commercially available were either grade 5 or 8 SAE,
     which is ok, but no thought went into it!
   For one thing- the pilot drilled hole the length of the shaft was at least an 1/8th' of an inch,
     now if you subtract 1/8 from 7/16th you end up with 5/16th".
   A simple perusal of any bolt strength chart would show 5/16 strength at 6300 pounds tensile!
     7/16th is 12800 lbs.
     5/8 is 27100 lbs [SAE 5 coarse threads].

   I noticed an extraordinary amount of bolt breakage with 7/16th drilled grease-able bolts.
   The manufacturers wouldn't address my concerns and warnings that this could cause crashes and deaths!
   Doing a lot of research I found that a SAE 8 5/8th when drilled with a #52 drill drops its strength from 38400 lbs to 24000lbs+-,
     and this is still way higher than original 7/16th" at 17800 lbs. [ grade 8 fine threads]
   So - CASE CLOSED! use 5/8 bolts-That stops any and all bolt breakage [ within normal usage] ,
     and that eliminates the sleeves for the poly spring eye bushings!
   Solves buying new shackles and perches when yours are worn out of round.
   Smoother ride, too! you'll see!!

         GAS COOLERATORS available now. 
         With todays horrible gasoline, fuel vapor lock is a common reaction to under hood engine temps. especially in summer months.
         The coolers I invented and used, stopped all hot summer vapor lock, during driving and or during engine shut off periods when under hood temps rise.
         The coolerator is made to fit into the space where an inline gas filter would be  - roughly 4 inch length.
         I found while testing the coolers that they performed best as close to the carb as possible, so mine is attached to the carb via a 3 inch long piece of 5/16th steel gas tube.
         Tests done showed a temp drop of 75 * f. average from the fuel going in to when it came out. 
         I tested with hot water, gasoline has about half the heat absorption properties of water, so thats at least 37*f drop in gas temps across 3.5 inch.!!
          Experimenting further  for even better cooling results.
          So far a noticeable difference in power from engine- more power, and  better fuel mileage  -average increase of 1 mpg. during hot  110*f summer months!


   SERVICES: I  do work on all IH  light line vehicles, and machine work, can polish axle shafts-
      remove flaws and imperfections on seal surfaces of axles.

     Call, or email me the order, then send a U.S. Post Office  postal money order,  to my address.
    Upon receipt of the Money order - the parts go out same day, if possible.
    CC or pay pals accounts cost money, and those costs get passed on, so I'm not using them at the moment to keep the
     prices low, for you.
    Thanks, John Tabor


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